May 7, 2008
The forecast was for fine weather so we chose Wallowbarrow as our Tuesday night climbing destination. I fancied tackling Malediction Direct but when we arrived there were alredy three people gearing up at the bottom of the first pitch. Five is always a difficult group size and we struggled to work out who was doing what (I blame the heat), but eventually Tony T and Sue decided to tackle Marilyn (HVS 5a ) whilst myself Jaysen and Keith headed for Digitation (MVS 4b 4b ).
Concious that if we climbed quickly we could get two routes in, i led the first pitch to the tree, and belayed the others up. We then quickly scaled the crack and headed down, thinking about maybe tackling Sharks Fin Scoop.
Descending the gully we glanced right and decided that Paradise (VS 4b) was worth a go. Jaysen led. It gets a star and merits it, great gear placements, and plenty of choice. I’d say it was slightly overgraded and would give it MVS (4b) but then I didn’t lead it.
Came down at nine o clock, still in daylight, and headed for the Newfield for our traditional post climb pint – excellent.