Photo courtesy of Joe Beaumont
Behind the Lines (HVS 5a 33m) at Hodge Close Quarry is another climb that I seconded some time ago and have wanted to lead ever since. Being only my third ever 5a lead (the first was Endurance and the second kick Off) I was a little bit psyched but determined to climb well. Dan from the Priestly Centre was again my climbing companion.
We parked the car and looked over at the route which was being climbed by someone (who turned out to be Joe Beaumont), with what seemed like relative ease. We saw the second (Bex Sharp) start up the climb and by the time we had walked over to the finish to ab in, she was already at the top and complaining about the midges – so were we, as I’d left the repellent at home.
We abseiled down to the start. The climb looked steeper than I remembered, and I had thought the initial section headed left but Dan assured me that it started behind the tree then headed left under the overhang. I climbed it pretty well, had a little trouble at the thinnest section where I hadn’t noticed a massive foothold out to the right, but otherwise just really enjoyed this three star route. The climbing is sustained, more on feet than arms and the protection is excellent. Dan climbed it without difficulty, then we headed down through Parrock Quarry to have a look at the routes in the All Weather Gym. Decided to pass on the climbing as we were fed up with being bitten, so instead headed off for a pint of Hawkshead bitter at the Sun in Coniston.
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Every time I’m in the Coniston area I find myself gazing up at Dow Crag. Having seconded Murray’s Route a few years ago I’ve kept promising myself that I’d return to lead it; but a combination of poor weather, poor planning and a long walk in have kept me away.
I led the first pitch of Murray’s Route (74m Three Star Severe) which contains the crux moves onto the slab and around the corner, missed the obvious belay point (duh) and climbed a few metres past it. Dan took the short pitch 2 to the belay in the cave then we rotated again with me leading the superb hand traverse and chimney pitch. Dan finished the climb and as we descended Easy Gulley we watched the climbers we’d met earlier tackling the first few pitches of Eliminate A.
